First determine the average depth of your pool by taking the depth of the deepest end of your pool and adding the depth of the shallowest end (in feet). Divide this number by 2. This number is the average depth. Continue below based on the shape of your pool.

*circle* total galllons =

diameter x diameter x average depth x 5.9 (in feet)

*oval* total gallons =

long diameter x short diameter x average depth x 5.9

*square or rectangular* total gallons =

length x width x average depth x 7.5 (in feet)

Your swimming pool is suffering from green algae growth. A common free-floating variety of algae imparts a cloudy green color to pool water. It's eassy to correct if treated early. Shock your pool, then use the proper dose of algaecide for the size of your pool.

Your pool may also be experiencing low total alkalinity, which can contribute to green algae growth, so you may also need to add an alkalinity increaser.

Algae is tiny microscopic plants deposited in pool water by rain, wind, and fill water. One ounce of pool water can contain millions of algae cells before they are visible.

Chlorine is a very aggressive disinfectant that kills bacteria. It is very important in maintaining pool water for swimmers safety and health. Bacteria and algae enter the pool every day from sources ranging from athers to the weather. When we test for chlorine in the pool water, it is referred to as free chlorine, meaning the chlorine is free and available to kill bacteria.

You need to shock your pool once a week. Depending on the usage and the weather, you may need to shock more often. 

Wait until the chlorine level drops below 3ppm.

You need to maintain enough chlorine in the pool to control bacteria. We recommend you keep the free chlorine residual of 1.5ppm-3ppm.

Parts per million is a unit of measuring chemical application. It indicates that amount by weight of a chemical in relation to one million parts by weight of water.

There are several possible causes of cloudy, smoky, or hazy pool water. Here are some possible causes and solutions below.

• Poor circulation or filtration: Backwash and clean the pool filter. Clean the skimmer baskets and pump strainer basket. The filter may need to be chemically cleaned.
• Improper water balance: Test the pH, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness, and make the necesssary adjustments.
• High total dissolved solids (TDS) and/or calcium hardness: If one or both are high, drain off 1/3 to 1/2 of your pool water and replace it with fresh water that is low in hardness. Adjust the chemical balance.
• Excess organic waste: Shock with one pound of shock for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
• High total alkalinity: Add a pH reducer.
• Low sanitizer level: Add chlorine to ring sanitizer into it proper range.

Staining appears as discoloration on pool surfaces. These stains may be green, blue, purple, gray, reddish-brown or beige to brown. "Permanent" stains (ones not easily brushed off) are typically the result of some chemical imbalance or metals present in the water.

• Gray, green to bluish purple stains: Most likely copper, possibly iron.
• Reddish to yellow-brown: Iron is the most likely cause.
• Medium to dark brown stains: Uncommon, but the presence of manganese is often the cause.
• Beige to tan stains on plastered or marcite finishes: This is a calcium or silicate scale build-up. Although scale is white, dirt is trapped in the crystals as they form.

All these conditions should be treated. The sooner you react to any stain, the greater the chance it can be elminated. See one of our chemical technicians for the most effective treatment for your pool.

Black spots on the floor and walls of your pool indicate black algae, which unfortunately is very hard to kill. Blavk algae typically appears as small black dots or blotches that are pinhead to quarter-sized. It has a tough outer coating and is very resistant to treatment, especially if it gets into the crevices of the pool.

To treat black algae, you'll need an algaecide specifically formulated to kill it. Even the most severe porblems can be eliminated faster if you use metal control product in conjunction with black algaecide. After you apply the chemicals, brush the areas of your pool with black algae growth to allow the chemicals to penetrate the outer coating of the spots.

Yellow (or sometimes green) dust on the floor and walls of your swimming pool is mustard algae. Apply the corect dose of shock, then use Yellow Treat that is specifically formulated to stop the growth of mustard algae. (See a chemical technician at one of our stores to better treat your pool size.)

No. Exposure to metals dissolved in the water, particularly copper, iron, and manganese causes your hair to turn green. When metals attach to the hair shaft and are oxidized by the chlorine, they can leave behind a green residue. To remove the metals from your hair use a swimmer's shampoo that can remove the metals from your hair.

Less work. Less chlorine. The POOL FROG system offers innovative mineral Technology for pool care. With POOL FROG, water will look and feel better without a lot of work or chlorine. This system controls bacteria using a combination of minerals and reduced chlorine levels. The end result is softer water that has an added sparkle.

The POOL FROG System is 4 parts in one. First, the POOL FROG Cycler serves as a "Water Treatment Center" and controls the flow of water. Second, the POOL FROG Mineral Reservoir, the essential part of the system, is placed inside the Cycler and holds one season's worth of minerals. Third, a Chlorine Bac Pac is placed inside the POOL FROG Mineral Reservoir. Fourth, your pool can receive guaranteed algae protection for 90 days by using FROG BAM before inserting a Bac Pac.

The smaller Bac Pac will last 7-10 days on in ground pools and 2-3 weeks on above ground pools. The larger pacs will last 3-5 weeks. Actual times will vary depending on pool size, pump size and run time, number of swimmers, water and air temperatures.

Yes, but you do need to use an alternative source of chlorine in the pool at all times. Most methods for adding chlorine will not be as precise as the Bac Pac so your chlorine levels may be higher than 0.5-1 ppm. Set the dial on maximum if using minerals only.

The most common cause is that the chlorine tablets have not fallen down into the area where the water flows through. Shake the pac to make the tablets fall into place. Low back pressure may also be the reason. By reducing the size of the eyeball fitting in the return will correct this.

Yes, but first you must convert the pool to a chlorine pool. Many pool dealers sell kits to convert pools to chlorine.

Silver and limestone. The silver controls bacteria and the limestone absorbs acids from chemicals, like chlorine, helping to maintain a neutral pH.

Minerals have been used for centuries. The Romans put silver coins in urns to help maintain water clarity longer. In more recent times, minerals are used every day in the medical industry with tremendous results. Some of these same minerals, like silver, are found in the FROG products.

In our pool products the minerals will last six months or one pool season whichever is shorter. Once activated by water, the minerals are effective for only six months or one pool season. Once removed from the water, the minerals may not be reused the following season.

The minerals enter the water at a low parts per billion level through a controlled release system that prevents over-dosing.

No. Pool Frog Minerals do not have any known harmful effects.

Yes, under most circumstances the average pool owner will be able to lower their chlorine level to 0.5-1ppm, which is up to 50%* less than most pools.

*Compared to the minimum EPA recommended chlorine level of 1.0 ppm for a stabilized swimming pool.

No, until the minerals are wetted, they will not expire; store in a dry location.

Algae are a pool's worse nightmare. Even with a great water care system like the POOL FROG, those steaming summer days, poor circulation pockets or accidental drops in chlorine levels could cause what no pool owner ever asks for. How can you guarantee that algae won't ruin your summer this year? With the FROG BAM!

It's so easy; just follow our 90/90 rule. Insert FROG BAM into the Mineral Reservoir, set your control dial to maximum and run your pump for 90 minutes, allowing BAM to circulate in your pool water. After 90 minutes, remove the BAM cartridge and discard. If using the Bac Pac, insert into the Mineral Reservoir. Your pool is now protected from algae for 90 days!

The main active ingredient is copper. Unlike many algaecides FROG BAM uses a very low level of copper, just 3%, and it stays in suspension for 90 days!

FROG BAM will not stain if used as directed. Thousands of customers have used it with great results.

Spa Start-Up:

Drain and refill the spa every four months, which is when we recommend replacing your spa mineral product.

Shock the spa with a chlorine or non-chlorine shock once a week or if the water looks hazy.

Always follow the spa manufacturer's directions or state codes for spa operation.

It's always a good idea to have Spa & Tub Manufacturer's fully test your water once you have completed your start-up process to make sure everything is in line. If you experience any difficulties with balancing or sanitizing, bring us a water sample and we will give you an analysis of what needs to be done to correct the situation.

Bromine is the leading spa sanitizer with a number of benefits over chlorine. It dissolves slower in hot water; it's less odorous and less corrosive and it regenerates itself every time you shock the spa. 

When using FROG minerals you can reduce bromine levels to 1ppm. Using bromine alone you must maintain 2-4 ppm. 

We have test kits availale at our stores for spa water testing. If you are experiencing water chemistry issues, you may need to bring us a water sample for additional analyses.

• Strong, smelly chlorine odor means you have chloramines, organic by products of chlorine oxidizing sweat, urine and other contaminants. Ridding the spa of chloramines demands a shock treatment. (either chlorine or non-chlorine)
• Your pH may not be balanced correctly.
• If your spa is indoors and you store your chemicals in the same room, the room may not be getting the proper air ventilation. Store your chemicals in another dry location.

The biggest culprit is detergent residue on swimming suits, but foaming can also be caused by cosmetics, sun tan lotion, body oils or other organic materials. Some tile and vinyl cleaners may also cause foaming. High pH is another cause. Use a defoamer.

When the water changes color it's usually due to the presence of metals from fill water. Iron with a rusty look or copper with a greenish, bluish appearance are common. Test for calcium hardness. Consult with your spa dealer regarding s sequestering agents or other options to resolve the problem.

Everything that enters your spa has a pH that can raise or lower the total pH of the spa. The following is a list of possible culprits that could be giving you a difficult time in maintaining pH between the desired range of 7.2 and 7.8.

• Tap water, depending on the area of the country, can either have a low or high pH
• Overestimating the amount of pH Decreaser or pH Increaser needed is often the problem
• Using bromine or chlorine tends to lower pH over time, while using shocks like Calcium Hypochlorite or Lithium Hypochlorite may raise the pH over time.
• High bather loads will tend to lower pH.
• Swimmer wastes, such as perspiration, urine, saliva and other body oils will also lower pH.
• A high alkalinity reading will raise the pH.
• Dirt, debris or leaves that blow into the pool as well as rain that is often acidic will lower pH.
• Salt chlorine generators will drive pH up.

pH is the abbreviation for "potential hydrogen" and the reading indicates the concentration of hydrogen ions in the water. Basically, it is the measure of how acidic or basic (alkaline) the water is.

Total alkalinity is the measure of how stable the pH is. It measures the water's buffering capacity to resist pH changes. Without control of the total alkalinity, the pH will rise and fall abruptly.

Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness), as the name implies, refers to the hardness of the water, measuring the amount of mainly calcium and also other minerals. Swimming pools require hard water - defined as water with more than 100 ppm of hardness ions.

Like pH and alkalinity, calcium hardness affects the tendency of water to be corrosive when it is low and scale forming when it is high. Generally, calcium hardness levels should be kept between 200 and 400 ppm.

Whenever you water looks hazy or cloudy, it is full of various particles that clarifiers bind together so they are large enough to be removed by your filter. Shocking the spa can also take care of this process.

Yes. Water supplies contain different levels of natural minerals like iron, copper or magnesium. These minerals must be removed from the water with a Metal Out to ensure easier balancing and proper sanitation. If using our FROG Mineral products, make sure you remove the natural water minerals at spa start up, wait 24 hours and clean filter before you use the special FROG minerals.

Yes, filters and circulation issues can lead to several water chemistry issues such as cloudy or hazy water. Make sure your filter is clean and in good working condition and your circulation time meets the spa manufacturer's requirements.

The number of people in a spa has a huge effect on spa sanitation. For example, four people in an average spa demand the same sanitation level of 200-300 people in an average home swimming pool.

Unlike all other floaters, SPA FROG...

The mineral cartridge lasts four months or whenever the spa is drained and refilled. The bromine cartridge lasts approximately 2-4 weeks.

Yes, under most circumstances the average spa owner will be able to lower their bromine or chlorine levels to 1 ppm, which is half the minimum industry standard. 

Silver and limestone. The silver eliminates bacteria, and the limestone absorbs acids helping to maintain a neutral pH.

Minerals have been used for centuries. The Romans put silver coins in urns to help maintain water clarity longer. In more recent times, minerals are used every day in the medical industry with tremendous results. Some of these same minerals like silver are found in the SPA FROG products.

SPA FROG is designed to last 4 months. Simply replace every four months or whenever you drain and fill your spa. 

No, until the minerals are wetted, they will not expire; store in a dry location. 

The minerals enter the water through a slow release process controlled by the flow of water into the SPA FROG.

No. Our minerals do not have any known harmful effects. 

Yes, under most circumstances the average spa owner will be able to lower their bromine or chlorine levels to 1 ppm which is half the minimum industry standard.

*Based on the minimum ANSI recommendation of 2.0 ppm.